NAFPLION
Nafplion,
first Capital of Greece, has 20,000 inhabitants and is divided
into the old and the new town. The old town was built mainly
in the days of the governor Ioannis Capodistrias, at the beginning
of the 19th Century, but buildings still exist from the Venetian
Era. The new town is an ordinary Greek town with no special
assets, so stroll about the old, historical quarters with their
neoclassical buildings, charming squares and majestic fonts.
Nafplion is the capital of the prefecture and one of the loveliest
towns in all of Greece.
The
old city with its neoclassic houses, picturesque streets, wooden
balconies with cascading flowers, Turkish fountains, Constitution
(Syntagma) square with fascinating mosques and outdoor cafe
tables and tavernas (restaurants), is like a faire land. Here,
after centuries of struggle, happiness has finally settled.
You feel like immersing yourself in its history, burrowing into
its pass The House of The Regent Mauer, The Military Academy
that operates as A Military Museum, The Army Ministry, The First
High school, The Parliament house, and finally Saint Spyridon's
Church where Kapodistrias, the first governor of Greece, was
assassinated.
And the fairy tale world continues, whether you climb up the
999 steps to the Venetian fortress of Palamidi crowning the
city, or wander around the battlements of Acronafplia or pop
over to the fortified island, Bourtzi, afloat in the middle
of the bay. Nafplion is full of the joy of life. It is the nobility
and calm found in Minoan frescoes. In Syntagma Square the Archaeological
Museum, with its findings from various periods and frescoes
from Mycenae and Assini, is housed in an imposing Venetian building,
while The Folk Art Museum on Vas. Alexandrou Street occupies
a neoclassical house.
HISTORY
The
Argolid was the heart of Greece from 1600 to 1100 BC under the
Mycenaeans.With their decline; the Dorians controlled the fate
of the region until the conquest of the country by the Romans.
During the Byzantine era the Argolid shared the fortune of the
rest of the Peloponnese. It was ruled by the Franks and surrendered
to the Turks in 1460, Nafplion, however, remained in Venetian
hands until 1540. Nafplio was the capitol of the newly formed
Greek state from 1828 to 1834, when this role passed to Athens.
Nafplio capitol of the prefecture and one of the loveliest towns
in all Greece. The old city with its neoclassic houses, picturesque
streets, wooden balconies with cascading flowers, Turkish fountains,
Constitution (Syntagma) square with its fascinating mosques
and outdoor café tables is like fairy land. And the fairy tale
world continues, whether you climb up the 999 steps to the Venetian
fortress of Palamidi crowning the city, wander round the battlements
of Acronafpia or pop over to the islet, Bourtzi, afloat in the
middle of the bay. A new sight or sensation keeps coming across
your path.
EPIDAURUS
The
road from Nafplio to Epidaurus passes through vineyards and
age-gold olive groves with the mountains looming hazily in the
distance, but for Mt. Arahneo, which rises directly above Epidaurus.
Arahneo – that’s just how Aeschylus called it in his tragedy,
Agamemnon. The breeze carries waves of sweet fragrances from
the woods, resin and turpentine. On a hillside, within the sanctuary,
lies the theater of Epidaurus (3rd c. BC), the most famous and
best preserved of all the ancient theatres in Greece. Built
of limestone, it can seat 12,000 spectators. Every summer it
comes alive. Attending a performance of ancient drama in this
theater is almost a mystical experience. Never to be forgotten.
A catharsis of the soul. At Epidaurus the actors don’t need
to shout or speak loudly. The acoustics are so perfect that
the merest whisper can be heard in the last row. The entrance
to the sanctuary lies to the north of the theater. Asklepios
was worshipped here. Zeus struck him down with his thunderbolt
because he wanted to destroy death. Among the ruins, one can
see the foundations of the temple of Asklepios (Doric, 4th c.
BC), the guest house, the tholos, the Abaton or sleeping porch,
the temples of Artemis and Themis, the gymnasium, etc. The museum
is near the entrance to the site and contains various artifacts
plus a helpful model of what the sanctuary must have looked
like. The town of ancient Epidaurus occupied the same location
as the present village of Palia Epidavros (old Epidavrus), a
seaside settlement wit a small harbor, nested in a plain thick
with olive and orange trees, rimmed with scenic beaches and
several tavernas. Seven Kilometers further north, at the foot
of Mt. Akros, the road arrives at NEA Epidavros, an inland village
and then proceeds several kilometers on to the lovely monastery
of AGNOUNDA with its Byzantine frescoes.
THE
MYCENAEAN TREASURE
The
acropolis reveals itself in the heart of the landscape that
is barred to the north, a bit tamer towards the south. A gray
mound of rock with the marks of the Cyclops upon it. One has
to touch these gigantic rough – hewn in order to comprehend
the deep sense of security they offered the Mycenaean’s. Within
these walls the leaders heaped the booty from their extended
wars, gold and jewels, bowls and purple rugs. Mycenae was the
most powerful, brilliant and sovereign influence in Greece up
to 1100 BC when it was destroyed by fire. Centuries later the
tragic poets Aeschylus and Sophocles brought it back to life
with the magic of their verses. One enters the acropolis through
the Lion Gate, the oldest example of monumental sculpture in
Europe. A secondary entrance, built in the same style, exists
in the north side. Inside the walls excavations have uncovered
the palace complex, grave circle A with six royal tombs, courtiers’
houses, sanctuaries and other important buildings. Outside the
acropolis lie the ruins of private houses. Grave Circle B with
14 royal tombs and 12 tombs of private citizens. On the nearby
hill of Panayitsa archaeologists brought to light the most stunning
edifice of Mycenaean architecture, the Treasure of Atreus, also
known as the beehive tomb of Agamemnon. Most of the more exceptional
finds from the site are on exhibit in the National Archaeological
Museum in Athens. These include frescoes, gold jewellery, and
the gold mask said to have belonged to Agamemnon, among other
priceless pieces.
TIRINS
From
Nafplio the road passes through a fertile, verdant valley to
arrive at the village of Tirins. The ruins of the fortress-palace
of Tirins lie just off the road. Its cyclopean walls are older
than those of Mycenae. The ancients believed that the Cyclops
built these walls, creatures with superhuman powers. Homer mentions
the “wall-girt” cities that took part in the Trojan War. Looking
at these massive walls-the biggest boulders weigh 13 tons each
one imagines that any attempt at besieging them must have been
in vain. Tirins flourished up to 1200 BC, when the acropolis
was destroyed by fire. In the enclosure below the acropolis
are the famous tunnels (secret cisterns). Among the most interesting
architectural achievements of the period. The palace with the
royal throne room at its centre occupied the highest point on
the acropolis. Fragments of wall paintings testifying to the
wealth and luxury of the palace at Tirins are on display in
the archaeological museums of Nafplio and Athens.